Monday, 16 February 2009

Antarctica - Our Seventh Continent! 11/02/09

Hi Everyone,
Well we are back from our seventh continent … boy did it go quickly!! Four days on the Peninsula was nowhere near enough.


We had two fun filled days on the Drake Passage … a notorious spot for heavy seas … the onboard doctor drugged us up with heavily sedating pills which helped us to sleep through it! No really it was not that bad our second day a little rougher than the first.

After passing the Antarctic Convergence we arrived into the Shetland Islands in good time and with excellent weather before us our expedition leader got us out for a sunset landing after dinner on Barrientos Island (part of the Aitcho Island Group). It was just spectacular and very hard to describe! Over time this would reveal itself to be our best and most picturesque landing.


The clear skies continued for another day. We enjoyed both a zodiac cruise and a landing on our "first" day in the Peninsula. In the afternoon we sat foot on our seventh and final continent at a place called Cierva Cove close to the Argentine base of Primavera. We were lucky to encounter humpback whales about five meters from our zodiac as we cruised around the cove.






The wildlife in the peninsula is extensive. We saw many different types of seals, penguins, birds and even whales. The Orca continued to allude us for the entire trip which was a shame. We were however privileged to have two scientists join us for part of the trip who had been in Antarctica for a month researching them as part of a study for a new BBC production "The Frozen Planet" due to air late in 2011! We also got a talk from the cameraman Doug Allan on some of their land and underwater footage so far … it is just incredible!


We enjoyed a morning zodiac cruise around an 'iceberg graveyard' which was just spectacular with icebergs as high as 50m suspended over us with 60million year old glacial ice displayed with shades of green, turquoise and blue. After boarding the ship again we got as far south as Petermann Island at 65°10'S 64°10'W where along with another landing and more wildlife spotting we enjoyed an Antarctic BBQ (a great excuse for us Kiwis to celebrate Waitangi Day in style from the Antarctic!).
We were provided with lots of historical information about Antarctica during our voyage and at one particular site, Port Lockroy along with enjoying the company of some furry friends we were able to look around a British Base restored to provide an idea about how it was to spend winters and summers there during the early 1900s, the most driest, remote and unforgiving environment in the world.

At a place called Deception Island (an active volcano) we were given the opportunity to partake in a "Polar Plunge". They told us that the first inch and a half of water was actually warm … but we don't believe them at all and we think the pictures prove our point. The series of photos in the external collection (particularly of Marcus) are a great summary of the registered temperature … at one degree Celsius it was quite an achievement to even make it in past the ankles!


On our particular trip we were also lucky to be part of a new find in Antarctica. A higher plant had been photographed two weeks before and had not been identified previously in Antarctica. Contacted by a British Research Group our on board botanist got very excited by this news and managed to track down the plant and identify it on Deception Island. Antarctica had only two higher plants before 8 Feb 09 and now they have three! The British are even working on a management plan for the plant right now.


We have a collage of photos for you to enjoy and think that it is better that you look at them rather than have us ramble on for some time.


Antarctica is a truly unique experience and one that is extremely hard to put into words. We had an absolutely fantastic time and enjoyed every minute of just being there.

Love to all

Victoria and Marcus

Tuesday, 3 February 2009

Iguacu falls

News from the edge of the world! 01/02/09

Hi Everyone,
Well it has been a while since you heard from us. We have been very active since Christmas and continue to have an excellent time.

We have reached the "edge of the world" (as they call it), the bottom of the continent, Ushuaia. It has been an exciting adventure with numerous highlights mixed with a multitude of long overnight bus rides and consecutive nights at bus stations.

We left you last at Christmas. At that point we had lots of sun and beaches. We enjoyed the peninsula of Buzios for a few days with picnic lunches on the beach for both our Christmas days.

After a few days spent in a lovely colonial town called Paraty (about 5 hours south of Rio) where we continued to enjoy the beaches we headed over to an island called Ilha Grande We left 2008 in style with a speed boat excursion around the island. A little taste of luxury … there were only eight of us on the boat. We saw in the New Year on the beach under a cloud of smoke from the fireworks. It was a really lovely day and evening.

We had numerous reality checks of the "real backpackers life" as we entered the New Year with eight of the first ten nights of the year spent on overnight buses or at bus stations!!

We headed across to Iguacu Falls on the Brazilian side. The place is just electrifying! We spent Marcus's birthday at the Brazilian side where we got a majestic overview of the falls and the following day headed over to the Argentine side where we were able to get a lot closer. The view overlooking 'Devils Throat' was just incredible – it was memorising just watching the amount of water tumbling across, the rainbows and butterflies just added to its charm.


From here we headed back across country first to Puerto Alegre for a day stop on route to Montevideo in Uruguay. With us arriving in the middle of peak season and not having accommodation booked we were pretty much left on the street so decided to live at the bus station for four nights and did excursions from there. We headed to Punta del Diablo and Punta del Este, both beaches but with major contrasts as well as spending some time in Montevideo before heading to Colonia del Sacrimento and on to Argentina. Punta del Diablo was an alternative place with sandy streets and a chilled out vibe while Punta del Este is where all the Brazilians and Argentines holiday for their summer … high rises and a swarming town (a mini Gold Coast).

We took the boat across to Buenos Aires in Argentina from Uruguay. We loved Buenos Aires, it was so welcoming to be in a cosmopolitan city again (I never thought I would say something like that). We spent four days there taking in all it had to offer, from an amazing cemetery where Evita was laid to rest to the area of La Boca – a colourful mix of tin and wooden buildings.
Once we left Buenos Aires we headed for Patagonia and haven't looked back since. It is such an amazing place with so much on offer considering the mass of desert and nothing that you pass through on long, long, long bus rides. The amounts of nothing compete with that of the Australian outback!
We spent time in Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdes where we were able to get our first glimpse of wildlife. The sea lions and the penguins were the highlights not to mention the armadillos. From here it was into the heart of Patagonia and we spent about a week around the area of El Calafate and El Chalten.
We enjoyed Perito Moreno Glacier and took a wonderful boat excursion out on Lago Argentina where along with cruising passed massive ice bergs (a taste of what is to come), we were able to witness some amazing sights of glaciers. We spent a few days walking in the Las Glaciars National Park (averaging about 35km per day – which was not a bad effort).
The weather was a little temperamental but at points throughout the time there we got sightings of all the highlights.

From here we arrived in Ushuaia where we are currently waiting for our boat to Antarctica J. We are really looking forward to this trip and promise to be in touch again with all the details once we are back from the ice!

We have updated our site … check out the new photos if you get a chance http://www.travel.rameke.com/.